Rose Pruning
 It's rose pruning time and we've found these helpful tips courtesy of the U of A Cooperative Extension and the Clemson Cooperative Extension publication, "Pruning Roses" by Karen Russ and Bob Polomski. Pruning roses keeps the plants healthy, promotes new growth, removes dead, broken or diseased canes, and/or trains the plant to a desired shape. It's important to prune because it encourages flowering, either more blooms or larger blooms, and keeps modern rose varieties blooming repeatedly all summer long - even in our hot desert. Roses need different types and timing of pruning depending on their variety. Repeat blooming roses such as floribunda and hybrid tea roses need a heavy annual pruning that is done in late January in the desert, early spring in colder climates, just as the buds break dormancy. The best way to judge when to prune is to look at the buds; when they begin to swell, start pruning. Old-fashioned roses and climbers that bloom only once a year should be pruned immediately after flowering. Do not prune these types of roses heavily in the early spring since they bloom on wood from the previous year's growth. Dead, diseased or damaged wood on any rose should be removed as soon as it is seen. To prune you will need: sharp bypass hand pruners, loppers, and possibly a pruning saw for larger cuts. When pruning, keep the hand pruners and loppers in a coffee can filled with 70% isopropyl alcohol to minimize disease transmission. Sturdy gloves with long cuffs and a long-sleeved shirt will protect your hands and arms. The main steps in pruning roses is the same for all rose types. 1. Remove all dead, damaged or weak stems leaving only the most vigorous, healthy canes. 2. Check to make sure the stems show no sign of discoloration. The center of the canes (rose stems) should be white and plump, not brown and withered. If they appear diseased, you will need to cut farther down into healthy wood. If no live buds remain, remove the entire cane. 3. Prune the bush to make it more open in the center. This will increase air circulation and help prevent diseases. Since rose bushes send out new growth from the bud just below a pruning cut, try to make pruning cuts above a leaf bud facing out from the center of the plant. 4. Make a cut 1/4 inch above the bud and angled at the same angle as the bud. Whenever two canes cross each other, one can be removed. Deadheading is cutting off spent flowers. Old blooms left on the plant may begin to form hips (rose fruit). Hips are often very attractive and can be left on some roses for winter interest and bird food. Hybrid tea roses and other roses that can rebloom should not be allowed to form hips, so that the plant will put its energy into flowering. To deadhead, remove the flower by making a diagonal cut just above the next five or seven-leaf branch down on the stem. This should be above a strong bud that will produce a healthy cane. All pruning cuts on canes greater than the thickness of a pencil can be sealed with wood glue to prevent cane borers from entering. Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and GrandiflorasPrune hard if you want large blooms suitable for cut flowers. This will produce fewer total blooms. Cut out all but three to five of the healthiest, most vigorous canes. Prune these canes down to 15 to 18 inches from ground level. Keep any weak, small or short stems pruned away. Generally with hybrid teas, any cane thinner than a pencil should be removed. In the late fall, prune roses back by about one-third of their height. Climbing RosesOld-fashioned rambling roses and one-time spring-blooming climbers produce best shoots growing off one-year-old wood, and they should not be pruned until after they flower. Cut away all weak or damaged stems and remove the oldest canes, leaving five to seven strong canes untouched. Remember that flowers are produced on stems at least one year old on most running or climbing roses. The stems that you leave will bear next year's flowers. Climbers that bloom on the current season’s growth can be pruned more severely. Old Garden RosesOld roses do not need the hard pruning that is needed by many modern roses. Hard pruning can ruin their graceful shape and severely reduce their flowering. Preserve the informal habit of old garden roses by removing no more than one-third of each bush. Generally, remove only the oldest stems that are no longer productive. Most old garden roses bloom once in a season. Prune immediately after bloom to keep old roses under control and vigorous. Leave some of the bright red hips for fall and winter color. Miniature RosesEver-blooming varieties can be lightly trimmed or tip-pruned several times a year, as they flower on new growth.
Mid-winter/Early Spring Gardening
This time of year holds great promise, but also a few perils, when it comes to planting. Our mild winters beg us outdoors to begin preparations for spring planting, then we get all excited and start putting seeds and transplants in our fresh beds. Some gardeners will urge caution against a late frost, but we're more "Go For It" people. What's the worst that can happen, you ask? Well, we could get a few frosty nights which might kill some new transplants. For us, the pleasure of planting in time to enjoy a spring harvest is worth it. Better to plant early then late. We all know what high and dry temperatures can do. So here's a list of some initial chores you should plan on and then seeds and transplants you can safely (probably) put in in the next few weeks. Have fun! Bed Prep - No matter where you live in the Valley, our soils have one thing in common: They need organic material. Be sure and add 4 to 6 inches of compost to your soil before planting anything. You want that soil to be light, not heavy. We also add Worm Castings to ensure seeds and transplants thrive. Established plants will also benefit from a good mulching of compost and some Worm Castings. The castings are a natural, sl ow release boost of nitrogen.
Pull up dead tired plants and rake up leaves. Start a compost pile. This is a great, easy way to recycle kitchen scraps and lawn clippings. Just ask us and we are happy to give you tips and you can see the one Amy uses the shop. Container Tips - This is a wonderful time of year for planting containers. Try planting a Salad Garden in a container this year. Pots are perfect for all kinds of lettuce, chives, radishes, baby ball carrots as well as edible flowers. They are beautiful and yummy at the same time. Sow Summer Blooming Wildflowers - There are a number of wildflowers that will do well and bloom during the searing summer months. Sow wildflowers now for summer blooms. We recommend Desert Marigold, Sacred Datura, Desert Senna and Arizona Poppy. We’ve also got a great Summer Wildflower mix.
Here's what to plant right now:
Veggies - beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, leeks, green onions, peas, radishes, spinach.
Leave room for these favorites to plant in about two weeks (around Feb. 10): cucumbers, melon, summer squash, okra, corn, snap and lima beans and tomato transplants. Remember do not wait until March to plant your tomatoes - that's too late.

Herbs - catnip chamomile, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, lavender, parsley, rosemary and thyme. Leave room for these favorites to plant by Feb. 20: anise, basil, tarragon, lemon balm, lemon grass, marjoram, mint, oregano, sage, salad burnet, yarrow. Flowers - You can still plant nasturtiums, if you do it right now, also bare root roses, bee balm, butterfly weed, black-eyed Susan, celosia, coleus (an excellent plant for shade), cosmos, desert marigold, four o'clock, gallardia, globe amaranth, gloriosa daisy, hollyhock, impatiens, lisianthus, marigolds, mexican sunflower, portulaca, sunflowers, sweet alyssum.
Ready, Set Grow!
Cooler temperatures and shorter days are on the way, so this is an ideal time get out and enjoy your yard and garden. We are packed to the rafters with 2009 seeds, tools, gadgets and fertilizers to make this - our best planting season - a snap. Here is a handy list of seeds to plant in September and October. Vegetables - Snap Beans, Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Collards, Cucumbers, Endive, Kale, Lettuce, Mustard Greens, Peas, Green Onions, Snow Peas, Radishes, Spinach, Swiss Chard ("bright lights" is pictured), and Turnips Herbs - Catnip, Chives, Cilantro, Dill, Fennel, Garlic, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme Flowers - African Daisy, Bells of Ireland, Bishop’s Weed, Black-eyed Susan, Calendula, Cornflower, Dianthus, Flax, For-Get-Me-Not, Foxglove, Gaillardia, Lobelia, Mexican Hat, Nasturtiums, Poppy, Primrose, Ranunculus, Salvia, Snapdragon, Stock, Sweet Peas, Verbena Native Wildflowers - Plant your wildflower seeds in October for spring blooms. We are fully stocked with your favorities and blends.
Winter Gardening
This can be a tricky time to garden. One day it will be warm and sunny and the next can be cold and blustery. Now is a good time to make sure that you garden is in good shape for the spring growing and planting season. Here are a few tips for keeping your garden in top condition. Check plants for Aphids: Attacks from these little green monsters are usually temporary this time of year. Spray affected plants with soapy water. A mix of 1 teaspoon dish soap (lemon scented works best) with 1 quart of water will take care of them. Or try our new organic pesticide and herbicide from Pharm Solutions. It works. Prune trees and bushes: Now is an excellent time, before spring budding, to shape-up citrus, landscape trees and bushes. Check for crossing limbs, and dead or damaged limbs. When sawing off limbs, always remember to start with a cut on the underside of the branch to avoid tearing or peeling the bark down when the limb comes off. Lawn care: Winter lawns need monthly fertilizing this time of year. Amendments that are high in nitrogen are best. If you don’t have a winter lawn, remember that dormant Bermuda lawns still need occasional water if we don’t get good winter rains. Apply iron: Now is the time for an application of chelated iron for plants such as bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oaks and other trees and bushes that have leaves that are prone to yellowing. Plant seeds: Even with our short days and chilly nights, there are still a few seeds that you can slip into the ground in January. Plant these seeds now. Herbs and vegetables - Beets, Carrots, Corn, Cucumbers, Jicama, Melons, Okra, Radishes, Summer Squash, Basil, Catnip, Chamomille, Chives, Fennel, Feverfew, Tarragon, Lemon Balm, Lemon Grass, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Sage, Savory, Scented Geraniums, Thyme, Yarrow. Flowers - Bee Balm, Butterfly Weed, Black-eyed Susan, Celosia, Coleus (an excellent plant for shade), Cosmos, Desert Marigold, Four O'Clock, Gallardia, Globe Amaranth, Hollyhock, Impatiens, Marigolds, Mexican Sunflower, Portulaca, Sunflowers, Sweet Alyssum, Yarrow.
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